TRULLO - REVIEW - 27TH MARCH 2012
I was very excited to visit Trullo yesterday - I’d heard such great things about it and had wanted to try it for a while. Even though it is situated on a busy road on Highbury Corner, once inside you really could be in a bustling Italian village. The white rustic chic decor and overall simplicity of the interior with deliberate white paper (not cotton) tablecloths and little wicker bread baskets make you feel instantly relaxed and at home in what could easily have been a pretentious restaurant.
Even though it was a Tuesday night, the place was buzzing and the constant chatter coupled with the charming 1930s music played in the background gave it the ideal atmosphere.
Trullo has a simple yet delicious menu - not too much choice but enough to deliberate over which gorgeous sounding dish to have. I opted for a starter of Grelot (sweet onions) with Goats Curd and Beetroot Crostini with Pine Nut and Lambs Lettuce salad while my diner went for the Bresaola with Rocket, Lemon and Petrolo Estate Olive Oil. Both were fantastic. The goats cheese and beetroot were smashed together to give almost a bright purple ricotta consisitency and went perfectly with the sweet onions and crunch of the crostini and pine nuts. My diners bresaola was sliced to perfection and really melted in the mouth.
It was a tough choice for main but after a rich starter, I decided to go for the Whole Mackerel with shaved Florence Fennel and a Brown Shrimp and Chervil salad. It was splendid - the fish was light and cooked wonderfully with the mackerel just falling off the bone and the salad was refreshing and extremely tasty with the lovely little shrimps complimenting the crunchy fennel.
My companion ordered what I was also very tempted by - the Black Hampshire Pork Chop with Borlotti Beans and Salsa Verde - and after the first bite, decided it was definitely the best pork he had ever eaten. The portion was very ample and probably one of the healthiest sized chops I’ve seen and the tanginess of the salsa verde and softness of the beans were a delightful accompaniment.
Now, let’s not forget the ‘potatoes’ as they were simply put in the Sides section amongst the only other side of a green salad. I would suggest they re-name them ‘The Best Potatoes’ as they really were incredible and I think I would go as far as to say, they were actually the best potatoes I’ve ever eaten. They tasted very bad for you, so that’s probably why! Coated in warm butter, chopped parsley, crushed garlic and well seasoned, they were quite simply, divine.
By this point, on our second glass of wine, we were pretty stuffed to the brim. However, the desserts sounded far too tempting to pass. So we ordered a Tiramisu and a Caramel Panna Cotta to share with coffees. The panna cotta was a perfect texture with a strong taste of fresh vanilla but I felt that the caramel coffee sauce was too heavy for such a delicate dessert and let it down slightly for me. The tiramisu however was a large plateful of all the right proportions - not too heavy on the coffee or alcohol and just lovely.
Trullo really is a delicious Italian restaurant that should be treasured and visited on those occasions when you want to feel happy and warm inside… and perhaps slightly heavier on departure. I blame the potatoes.
Dotty Dishes was a guest of Trullo.
Trullo, 300 St Paul’s Road, London, N1 2LH.